Abstract:

Most preservatives are irritating and can easily induce skin sensitivities. Therefore, both domestic and international regulations impose clear restrictions on the use of preservatives in cosmetics. Herein, gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was employed to simultaneously analyze the levels of 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics. Further, a precise identification approach based on a two-column retention index and mass spectrometry matching degree was developed. Cosmetic samples were extracted via acetonitrile vortex ultrasound extraction and then dehydrated with anhydrous MgSO₄. The preservative allergens were separated on two columns, namely, DB-5MS and DB-WAX. Targets were identified using electron impact ionization (EI) source and the multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode and characterized using a retention index calibrated by a series of n-alkane standards. Following two tests, the LODs for the 15 preservative allergens on the DB-5MS column were in the range of 0.02-0.2 mg/kg, while those for 12 preservative allergens on the DB-WAX column were in the range of 0.01-20 mg/kg. The preservative allergens on the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns demonstrated strong correlations, with all correlation coefficients exceeding 0.99. The recoveries for the 15 preservative allergens were in the range of 70.1%-129.8% at low, medium, and high levels, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs) were all below 15% (n=6) when using water, lotion, facial mask, and cream as the representative matrix. Next, 80 batches of genuine samples were tested using the established method. Isopropyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, a prohibited preservative, was detected in two sample batches using the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns. Additionally, 11 and 10 restricted preservative allergens were identified on the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns, respectively. The test results indicate that the double-column system approach offers excellent accuracy, effectively preventing false-positive and false-negative results, and can detect the 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics. The use of the retention index for the qualitative detection of these preservative allergens offers valuable options for non-targeted screening and meeting regulatory criteria.

Key words: gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS), multiple reaction monitoring (MRM), retention index (RI), preservative allergens, cosmetics